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Book ■. t^'-jS 



ESSAT, 



M^irurACTURz: of stra'w bokxtets, 

CONTAINING 

An historical account of the introduction of the 
manufacture^ its effects upon the Employments^ 
Dress^ Food^ Healthy Morals^ Social In- 
tercourse^ ^c. of the inhabitants of 
the several Towns in which it 
has been carried on ; with 

5I0RAL, POLITICAL AND MISCELLANEOUS REMARKS, 



'* He that hawks at larks and sparrows has no less 
sport, though a much less considerable quarry, than be 
that flies at nobler game." — Locke. 



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PROVIDENCE, 

BARNUM FIELD & CO. PRINTERS. 

1825. i,/'' 



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XNTHODUCTZON 



The manufacture of Straw, however trivial, 
it may appear at first view, has been more ex- 
tensive in its effects than many, perhaps, will 
be willing to allow. It seldom happens in a 
civilized country that the females are the most 
productive class of laborers. But that this 
has been the case, in a portion of our country, 
at least, no one who is at all acquainted with 
the subject, will pretend to deny. And, as the 
earnings of females in this country are general- 
ly at their own disposal, it must give them a 
greater degree of influence, than they otherwise 
possess. The influence of females- upon me» 
and things, in every state of society, is greater 
than is generally believed. This will appear 
the more evident, when we consider that not 
only the welfare of individuals, but even of na- 
tions, is often dependant upon the virtues of the 
women. The truth of this sentiment might be 
evinced and illustrated by adverting to the his- 
tory of some of the most famous of the an- 
cient nations ; and particularly of those whose 
forms of govepment were like our own. The 
most friiining periods of their history were those 
a2 



4 INTRODUCTIO.N. 

in which the modesty, fidelity, economy and vu- 
rious other domestic virtues of the female sex, 
inspired the men with noble sentiments and ex- 
cited in them a spirit of industry, frugality, and' 
a love of domestic life. 

I am aware that subjects in which females are 
concerned, ought to be treated with the great- 
est caution and tenderness ; for whatever has a 
tendency to detract from their dignity, or to 
lower them in the views of mankind, must be 
injurious to society. But when we consider 
their importance and influence, in regard to ihe 
happiness of mankind ; surely, it can give no 
offence to' represent transactions, in which they 
are concerned, in a proper light. 

All great and sudden changes,iwhether in man- 
ners, customs, nature, politics, or religion, are 
apt to be attended with dangerousconsequences. 
That a great change has taken place in a con- 
siderable portion of our country, within the last 
twenty-five years, and that this change has, in a 
great measure, been caused by the introduction 
of the Straw Manufacture; 1 shall attempt to 
show in the following pages. \. It may be thought 
by some that too mnch has''"*"been attributed to 
this cause ; but, however this may be, it is to be 
hoped that the facts relative to- the manners of 
the times, have not generally be*^ mistaken; 



INTRODUCTION. 5 

indeed, to give a sketch of the manners of 
^the pasNing- times was one object of the present 
undertaking. And although many of the cir- 
cumstances which will be noticed, may be re- 
ferred to a particular cause, and be applied to a 
particular section of our country, yet, they are 
nevertheless of a general nature, and may ap- 
ply to manv other parts of it. 

" It is not sufficiently considered," says Dr. 
Johnson, '' that men more fiequently require to 
be reminded than informed " And thus, trans- 
actions, which to many were well known at the 
time in which they occurred, and whose conse- 
quences may have had an important influence 
upon the welfare of mankind, are too often by 
the hand of time, swept from the remembrance, 
for the want of a faithful record. 

The truth of the above sentiment applies to 
facts, which relate to health, to morals, and in 
short, to whatever immediately concerns the 
happiness of mankind And although we give 
our assent to the truth of those iacts, yet how 
seldom do we suffer them to influence the con- 
duct of our lives. That beauty soon fades, that 
our time is short, that man is mortal, are facts, 
the truth of which none will deny. Yet how 
little are our actions affected, by the fading na- 
ture of beauty, the shortness of time, or the 
certainty of death. The object of this attempt 

t A3 



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6 INTRODUCTION. 

is, to call to mind some of the transactions which 
have taken place among us, during the last 
twenty-five years. Transactions which have 
greatly affected, and still affect the happiness 
of at least a portion of my countrymen. 



,.^- 



-^s^^^fr 



AN ESSAY ON THE MANUFACTURE OP 

STRik-W BO^STISTS. 



CHAPTER I. 

Historical account of the origin, progress, and de- 
cline of the Manufacture of Strain) Bonnets in 
the United States. 

The New-Englanders have beePx called a peo- 
ple " full of new inventions ;"(a) and in many 
instances, this renaark is but too true. Many 
have endeavored to make themselves rich or 
renowned, by inventing things rare or useful ; 
and probably, there have been more '^ patent 
rights" granted to the people of INew-England, 
than to those of all the rest of the United States. 
However, but few individuals, I believe, have 
been made rich, by attempts of this kind. It 
is a kind of lottery, and they who risk most, 
are generally the greatest losers ; although the 
public at large are often benefitted by them. 

The manufacture of Straw, was not an orig- 
inal invention of this country, but was introduc- 
ed by the imitation of the European manufac- 
ture. 

About the year 1797, straw bonnets were 
first manufactured in TVew-England. To Mrs. 

(a)" The New-Englanders," says P. Stansbury, .in 
his Pedestrian Tour, " considered as one body repre- 
sented in an individual, are a sanctinionious, sober, 
good-looking, and withal, an enterprising; neighbour, 
full of excellent thoughts and new inventions,'" 
a4 



8 Essay on the Manvfacture of Straw. 

Naomi Whipple, then the wife of Cnptain John 
Whipple, of Providence, K. I. is due the credit 
of introducing the manufacture into thi* coun- 
try. Mr. W^hipple was a respectable trader, 
and, as was often customary in those days, Mrs. 
Whipple assisted him in the business of the 
store — carrying on at the same time, the mil- 
linery business to a considerable extent. Mrs. 
Whipple was in the habit of receiving consign- 
ments of bonnets from a merchant in ISew- 
York, who imported them from England, or 
some other part of Europe. She at length con- 
ceived the idea of manufacturing bonnets her- 
self, and thereby to afford employment for her 
industrious neighbours. She accordingly pro- 
cured some straw, and sent for a young lady in 
the neighbourhood, (Miss Hannah Metcalf,) and 
they made the attempt. By unravelling a piece 
of braid which they took from one of the Eu- 
ropean bonnets, they soon found themselves suc- 
cessful. The discovery was soon communicat- 
ed to others in the vicinity of Mrs. W. who im- 
mediately engaged in her employment. In a 
short time Mrs. W. was enabled not only to sup- 
ply her customers about home, but also to send, 
in her turn, a box of bonnets to the aforesaid 
merchant in New-York. The business being 
found profitable, induced some other ladies in 
Providence to engage in it ; and for about two 
years, the business was principally or solely con- 
linedto that town. The business of Straw-braid- 
ing has never been carried on to that extent in 
the sea-port towns, as it has in the country.— 
And after the employment became extensively 
carried on in the country, those engaged in it 



Essay on the Manvfaciiire of Straw. fi 

ir\ Providence, nearly, or in a great measure, 
abandoned it. INothing, to any amount, was 
done al the business, except in Providence, in 
any other of our sea-port towns, and therefore, 
the business has had but little effect upon them. 

We come now to speak of the introduction 
of the business into the country towns. 

It was not till during the year 1799 or about 
two vears after it was lollowed as an employ- 
ment in Providence, ihat the straw-business was 
introduced into the country towns. During the 
summer of 1799, several young ladies went from 
the town of Providence, and took up their resi- 
lience in some of the country towns in Massa- 
chusetts, I believe, for the purpose of attending 
a boarding school. These ladies wore straw- 
bonnets of domestic manufacture, and these 
were the first of the kind, known to be worn in 
the country towns ; and indeed ihey were, at 
that time, considered as great rarities. One of 
these ladies, (Miss Sally Richmond,) who took 
up her residence in the town of Wrentham, 
Mass. had been acquainted with the manufac- 
ture before she left Providence. To the fe- 
males in the family in which this lady resided 
in Wrentham, is probably due the credit of man- 
ufacturing the first straw-bonnets in the countrj^ 
towns in New-England, ^ome little account of 
the first bonnets which were made, in the coun- 
try, may be amusing to some of my readers. 
Owing to the want ol skill and dexterity, the 
Urogress and facility with which bonnets were 
made, were at first comparatively slow. The 
first bonnets were braided with whole oat straw 
Hatted. And the two first contained one sixteen, 
a5 ^ 



10 Essa7j on the Manufacture of Straw. 

the other eighteen yards, the latter, however, 
was considered '' rather too large !" (6) 

Much admiration was excited upon the first 
appearance in public, ol these new articles of 
domestic mannfaclure ; which hade fair to rival 
the workmanship of the fair daughters of Europe! 
What " fancied importance" sat perched upon 
their countenances, while at church they exhib- 
ited to view, those prodigies of art and ele- 
gance ! What busy whispers of admiration ran 
through the whole congregation ; even mute 
envy could hardly withhold applause. Nothing- 
was talked of among the ladies, but the iiew 
" Straw Bonnets ;" and soon the great art of 
straw-braiding was learned by many. Althorgh 
by many of the more serious and thoughtful, 
they were thought by far too gay ; yet in spite 
of the hiss of prudes, and the caution of moth- 
ers, the girls would not be contented, till they 
were each possessed of a new straw-bonnet. — -- 
Thus il would appear, that straw-bonnets were 
at first manufactured, not so much for the sake 
of the money, which could be made by them, 
as for the purpose of catching admiration. 

The example of the ladies of Wrentham, 
soon induced many others, in the adjacent towns, 
to enter into the employment : and in a short 
time it had extended over a considerable por- 
tion of the country. From this time its march 



(&)An account of the different shapes into which straw- 
braid has since been tortured, would be really diverting. 
How capricious are mankind, when ruled by fash- 
ion ! 



EssQjj on the Manufacture of Straw. 1 1 

w;is quite reg'ular, till bonnets became an arti- 
cle of coniiiierce ; when their mnnufaclure 
sj)read more ra|)idlv thronghout most of the in- 
land towns in the easterl}^ part of Massachusetts ; 
and into several towns in tiie Norlh-Easlerly 
part of Rhode-Island. 

Early in the year 1804, by the " indu.^t ry ;cnd 
enterprise" of the ladies in the first parish in 
Wrenlham, an clog-ant organ (c) was purchased, 
by contributions of elraw-bonnets, and jiresented 
to the Congregational Society in that place, for 
the nse of their meeting-house. The fame of Ibis 
wonderfi.il achievement, spread far and \\id3; 
great fortunes and great aggrandizements were 
expected soon to be realized. Even an eulogy 
w^as written upon the subject by Di-. James 
Mann. This, although it is said to have been 
exaggerated, was, I believe, published in the 
INorfolk Repository for 1804. Indeed, the en- 
thusiastic ardou-r with which the business was 
carried on, amounted to but little less than a de- 
gree of temporary madness. For a chort time 
after the introduction of the employment, no 
more bonnets were made than w^ere suiEcient 
for themselves, and for those in the adjacent 
town«, who had not learned to manufacture for 

(c)Thc Bonnets with wliich this organ was purchased, 
■were, I believe, disposed of in iMaine. The genMenian 
v/ho was entrusted with therfl, it was said, endeavour- 
ed to make a '• pretly good spec"' by them, for himself, 
over and above his commissions. In 1823, this organ 
Was removed from its "• proper and conspicuous place," 
and has taken one of the back pews, where it stands 
*' as a monument of industry and enterprise,"" as well as 
of vanity and folly. 



12 Essay on ihe Mauufucture of Strain. 

themselves. But in process of time, the num- 
ber engaged in the business, and consequently 
the quantity manufactured, became so great that 
it was found necessary to employ persons to dis- 
pose of them. Hence the origin of Bonnet 
Merchants. They for awhile disposed of the 
bonnets in our large seaport towns, Maine, and 
elsewhere. But after sometime, the}^, from 
the example of Mrs. Whipple and other ladies 
in Providence, learned to dispose of them in 
the Middle and Southern states, whence the 
greater part of the bonnets since manufactured, 
have been carried. Except a few were sent by 
Mrs. \\'. and others, to the Bay of Honduras ; 
and probably some few other adventures ; but 
few have been sent out of the United States. 

The manufacture, as well as the merchandize 
of bonnets, for about twenty years, was found 
considerably profitable ; since which it has been 
declining, and it is now (1825) reduced to a lev- 
el with, if not below most other employments. 
Yet doubtless, from the vast numbers who have 
been engaged in it, many of Avhom have never 
acquainted themselves with any other employ- 
ment, it will be followed while any thing can 
be earned by it : or till some other employment 
shall be found. In this place will be noticed 
what seem to be the causes of the decline of 
the business. The first and niost obvious no 
doubt is, that the quantity of bonnets manufac- 
tured was more than sufficient to supply the 
effectual demand. The great extent of coun- 
try over which it has spread, and consequently 
the great numbers engaged in it, will account 



Essay on the Manufacture of Straw. 13 

for the vast quantities of bonnets manufactured. 

Another reason no doubt is this, that as man- 
kind are apt to despise every good which is too 
obvious and too plentiful, so doubtless, when the 
ladies of the Middle and Southern States could 
procure straw bonnets easily, and they were no 
long-er rarities, they began to despise them.— 
Nor is this to be wondered at, for many among 
las, have, for the same reasons, laid them aside 
for the more costly and fashionable " Leghorn." 
The merchants, till the business began to de- 
cline, depended almost wholly for the sale of 
their bonnets, upon the large towns and cities 
in the Middle and Southern States. But since 
they have become less fashionable in those pla- 
ces, they have disposed of them in the more in- 
land towns. Thus, when the inland parts be- 
come so well supplied that they are rendered 
common or unfashionable, the business may be 
at an end, for the want of a market. But as 
fashions change, straw-bonnets may again be- 
come fashionable, although, when the country 
has once been generally supplied with them, so 
that they are no longer a rarity, the sales of 
them must be doubtful and unstead3^ 

It may appear a little singular at first view, 
that although the goods, which were usually ex- 
changed for bonnets and braid, were generally 
sold at a great advance ; yet but few if any of 
the bonnet merchants were made rich bj the 
traffic. Nor indeed were many of those en- 
gaged in the manufacture made rich by it.— 
Many, however, bettered their condition con- 
siderably, and others laid up something for an- 
other day. But it was generally the case with 



14 Essay on the Manufacture of Straw. 

the merchants as well as the manutacturer, that 
'' those ruinous taxes, private luxury, and ex- 
travagance" absorbed all their gains. 

The difficulties with which the bonnet mer- 
chants had to encounter, in order to dispose of 
their bonnets, and those which sometimes arose 
from their ignorance or inattention to their 
business, may, in some measure, account for 
their want of success ; some of the difficulties 
with which they had to encounter, will now be 
noticed. And first, the long credit which they 
were often obliged to give, in order to dispose of 
their bonnets ; or the long time which it often 
required in order to exchange them for cash. 
Goods purchased in Boston, or elsewhere, on 
sixty or ninety day's credit, could usually be 
disposed of for bonnets in that time ; but the 
bonnets could seldom be disposed of for cash in 
twice that time. Hence they often transacted 
their business on credit ; the precarious nature 
and unprofitable tendency of which, must be 
sufficiently obvious. Another difficulty was 
that they were obliged to transact their bui^iness 
at a distance. They were generally either 
obliged to entrust their bonnets to commission 
merchants in New-York and other places, who 
no doubt, were often unfaithful in sales and 
remittances, or to go and attend to the sales 
themselves. To meet these, and probably many 
other contingencies, required a larger amount 
of stock than has usually been vested in this 
business. 

Probably, the business might have continued 
longer, if it had been carried on by means of 
cash only. It would certainly have enabled the 



Essay on the Jlhtni'faciurc of Slra'j:. 15 

liealcrs in it to have calculated u lib more ease 

^and facility an exact state of their business. — 
Anci certainly, the manufacturers would not have 
been so olten tempted to have purchased luxu- 
ries, to the de?ire and introduction of which, 
may in some measure, be attributed the vast 
quantities manufactured. Another great rea- 
son of the bad success of the merchants, was 
the great competition which existed among 
themselves. In a country village, the employ- 
ment of a bonnet merchant was held next in 
honour to the professions. Indeed, the idea of 
gentility was so inseparably connected with the 
business, that many engaged in it without much 
previous information or preparation. Hence 
many of tht^m, in order to gain the custom, 
were induced to pay a higher price, and to hold 
out greater advantages than the protits of the 
business would allow. It is probable, too, that 
many of them, from considering themselves as 
being placed in a higher rank in the world, 
were induced to live above their incomes. Un- 
der so many disadvantages, and with so many 
dilTiculiies to encounter, it is not strange that 
some failures should take place. The tirst com- 
mission of a bankruptcy which occurred among 
the bonnet merchants, was during the year 1015 
or 16. Since that time, there have been a 
large number of failures in the trade, some of 
them to a considerable amount, (^d) 

((/) One of the irrealest failures (that of Fisher, Day 
&; Co.) is said to have happened in consequence of the 
selling out ol one of the firm to the rest,. '^ ut a great 
bargain." 



m. 



16 Essay on the ManufaCiarc of Straiv. 

About the time the business was at its height 
ot prosperity, an attempt was made by a lady ot 
Bridge water, to introduce it into some of the 
towns on Cape Cod, Barnstable county, Mass. 
l>ut, from what causes I am not certain, the at- 
tempt was attended with but very little success. 

In a country, like our own, where competition 
is mostly free— where every individual is at lib- 
erty to follow any occupation or employment, 
which he may think most advantageous or 
agreeable ; if any one employment is found 
more profitable or honorable than another, 
great numbers will engage in it, and soon re- 
duce it to a level with others. And in regard 
to the straw manufacture, we have no reason to 
wonder at its decline ; the great wonder would 
seem to be, that it has continued profitable so 
Ions'. 



'%s>- 



CHAPTER II. 

State of Domestic Manufactures^ and employment 
of females^ 'prior to the introduction oj the Straw 
Manvfaciure. The effect 'is:kich it has had upon 
them. 

That many of the circumstances noticed in this 
and the succeeding chapters of this essay, might 
have taken place in the natural course of things 
without the introduction of the Straw business, 
is quite probable. But that this has had a di- 
rect tendency to hasten these events, is also no 
doubt true. For in country towns at a distance 
from seaports, where the business has not been 
carried on, the former manners of the inhabi- 
tants, in a great measure still continue. 

From the time of the settlement of the coun- 
try, most of the inhabitants of the inland towns, 
and especially in the Northern States, have 
been accustomed to manufacture most of their 
articles of clothing. But more especially those 
for ordinary use. Almost every farmer kept a 
flock of sheep which supplie.l a sutTicient quan- 
tity of wool for the use of their families. Flax 
likewise was raised to supply the necessary ar- 
ticles of linen. Some woollen and linen cloths 
were likewise made for exportation, or to be 
exchanged in our large towns. One of the prin- 
cipal employments of females, was to manufac- 
ture the raw materials of wool and flax, into 
cloth, and garments tor themselves and families. 
To manulacture a good piece of cloth requires 
a considerable share of skill and dexterity, and 
to excel in this art was, at that time, considered 



J 8 Essay on the Manufacture -of Sir axe. 

as one of the highest recommendations a fem;u< 
could posse??. Girls also assisted in the man- 
as^ement of the dairy. And they likewise occa- 
sionally assisted in many of the lighter labors of 
the field. And this was !*y no means thous^ht 
a disgrace to them ; hut rather a credit. For 
esteem, as well as affccticn, is always increased 
hy sympathy ; and this is never more likely to 
be excited than when lemales shew a disposition 
to Jighten the labors of the other sex. 

It was a custom likewise, when there happen- 
ed to be a large number of girls in a family that 
some of them went out. These were usually 
employed in other respectable families, where 
there happened to be no girls, or in families just 
beginning in the world. And these girls gene- 
rally bore the highest characters; for they com- 
monly acquired all the knowledge requisite in 
the mnnagement of a family. Many girls, born 
jof parents in indigent circumstances, were often 
enabled hy those honorable means to raise them- 
selves to the highest rank in life. Not she who 
was the finest and most fashionnbly drest, but she 
who was best qualified to perform all the duties 
cfdom^eslic life, was considered the most valua-' 
blc character. At that time a person who at- 
tempted to make .. an ostentatious display of 
dress, was soon pointed out as an object of rid- 
icule, and indeed by the more sober people, 
they were considered injurious to society. 

Although a trade (€) had been carried on be- 

(c) General Lazell, in the town of Bridgewater, and 
Mr. Daniel Waldo, in Worcester, were the first who 
carried on trade to any great amount between those 
towns and Boston. Both of these men, by taking the 



Essay on the Manvfacture of Straw. 19 

twcen seme of the country towns and the seaports 
previous to the introduction of the Straw busi- 
ness; yet for various reasons, it was circum- 
scribed to very narrow limits. By the peculiar 
manners of the people ia the country, by their 
manaiacturing- their own clothing and their de- 
pending almost wholly upon the produce of their 
farm's, they were rendered nearly independent 
of the seaport towns. And they were therefore 
unacquainted with their manners and stangers 
to their luxuries. But when straw bonnets be- 
gan to ije manufactured in large quantities and 
became an article of traliic ; the Bonnet mer- 
chants found it expedient or prolitable to intro- 
duce into their trade articles of clothing &c. of 
foreign manufacture, and in this manner the face 
of things was entirely changed. A taste was 
formed for the finery of Europe and the Indies. 
'Nona would either manufacture or wear the 
coarser home made stufls, while they could be 
supplied with better from the store. The stores 
were thronged with anxious customers ; and ev- 
ery new package, excited the greatest solici- 
tude. AH other employments were left ; girls 
who werc'out, were generally called home, and 
all anxiously engaged in the straw business. Ia 
a short time, scarce a girl could be found who 
was wilang to do the work ofa family; and this the 
mothers were often obiiged, or wiMlng to do ; ia 
order that the girls might not betaken '-from their 
straw^" And in less than five years after the in- 
troduction of the business, it would have beea 
thought by many females, almost an utter dis- 
advantage of tho desires of the people for luxuries, be- 
came very rich. 



i'O ■ Essay on the Manufacture of Strazi:. 

grace to be seen (not to mention " the lighter" 
labours of the tield") at the spinning wheel, or 
in the loom. 

The neglect of the mami^ncture of linen and 
woollen cloth .in families, occasioned the intro- 
duction of India cottons, calicoes, woollon- &,c. 
Although their place is now, in par t supplied by 
domestic manulaciures, fabricated by the help 
of machinery. See remarks- at the end of this 
chapter 

We should never for the sake of present prof- 
it, neglect to take precautions for future advant- 
ages. But, because the business was for the time 
profitable, it was not sufficiently considered that 
it might cease to be so. Hence many girls were 
brought up almost eMiiiely ignorant of many of 
the most useful and necessary parts of female 
education, such as spinning, kuiting, sewing, &.c, 
qualitications very necessary in domestic life, es- 
pecially for females residing in a country place, 
wh<^re few are exempted by (heir conditions in 
life, from atiepding to the cares of a family. 

[Cotton was first manufactured by machinery, 
in the U. States, in 1793, hy Samuel Slater, 
Esq. Mr. Slater made his first purchase in the 
viliag-« of Paw tucket, March 3, 1793, and got his 
works in operation during the fall of the same 
year. 

But cotton was not manufactured in such 
quantities as to prevent, in any great measure, 
its importation from foreign countries, till Mr. 
Jefferson's embargo in 1807. During the em- 
bargo, and till the conclusion of Mr. Madison's 
war, the rnarjufacture of cotton in the U. Slates, 
increased with a rapidity unknown in the history 



Essay on the Manufacture of Straw. '^l 

of any age or nation, Woolen manufactures 
were' established about the year 1812, But ex- 
cept Satinetts thsv are not at this time. ;18^24) 
in a very floarishing s^ate, owin- probab.y in a 
great measure, to the scarcity, and consequent- 
fy the high price of the raw material.] 



b2 



CHAPTER III. 

Effects of the emploijmenf upon the Dress, Diet 
i^c. of those engaged in it. 

It has been the great fault of maffkind in all 
ages, says an excellent moralisf, to prefer the 
shining to the solid, the agreeable to the usefuL 
and the present to the future. Thus it v. ^is uith 
those engaged in this employment ; when they 
were enabled to purchase the luxuries of Eu- 
rope and the Indies. 

Previous to the introduction of this employ- 
ment, the people in the towns where the bus- 
iness was carried on, were almost entirely de- 
pendant, for food and clothing upon the produce 
of their farms. But after the introduction of 
the business, and females had left manufacturing 
for themselves, it became necessary to [)rocure 
clothing from another source. And thus were 
introduced the more shewy ariicles of di'ess, of 
foreign manufacture, instead of their own plain, 
though more permanent articles; with which 
they had been equally, if not even more con- 
tented. It is surprising to what heights of ex- 
travagance the desires of mankind, unless guid- 
ed by reason, will arise ; when the means of 
indulging them are possessed. As the earnings 
of females were generally, at their own disposal, 
they were enabled to dress themselves with 
great elegance. The compelitinn araong'them- 
selves, to see who should be the finest and mcs^ 
fashionably dressed, had a direct tendency, to 
increa^e this extravagance. The same t^den- 
cy was produced by the competition among th'^ 



Essaij on the Manufacture of Straw. 23 

bonnet merchants ; and the allurements which 
they held out, often induced them to make un- 
common exertions. And thus, the dresses of 
females, increased to a degree of extravagance, 
unexampled in the history of our country ; and 
even, in many instances, exceeded the dresses of 
females in seaport towns. The poor, as well 
as the rich, were enabled to support and clothe 
fhem-iclves with elegance, and in order to dis- 
tinguish ihemselves, they were often induced to 
exceed in extravagance the more prudent and 
wealthy. Indeed it was sometimes the com- 
plaint of the mothers in the more wealthy fam- 
ilies, that '' their datighters could not be known 
from those of their poorer neighbours," (/".) 

Many who were unable to distinguish them- 
selves by the expensiveness of their dresses, 
endeavored to do so by their number and varie- 
ty. This great change in the dress ot females, 
could not fail to afiect the dresses of the males. 
Notice of this, however, will be taken in anoth- 
er place. It is but just to remark, that since 
the decline of the busines-, the unbounded ex- 
travagance in which those who have been en- 
gaged in it, in regard to dress, has in some meas- 
ure subsided. Happy would it be, if the de-'ires 
of mankind could ever be regulated by reason, 

(/.) Miserable times indeed, when persons must de- 
pend upon dresi and not upon merit for distinction. 
But in this, envy like ambiiion, bears no rival. One 
would think, liowever, that, in regard to dress, it 
■svoul'i be a reflection sufficient to humble pride and 
silence envy, that the first institution of it -was on 
account of shame. 
b3 



24 Essay on the Manufacture of Straw. 

rather than by the means of indulgence which 
thev possess. (^) ^ 

With the change in dres^i, there took place 
almost as great a change in the articles of food. 
The inhabitants of the country towns, before the 
introduction of this business, were almost en- 
tire strangers to luxurious living Lxcept on 
some particular occasions, their food was almost 
entirely the produce of their farms. Those of 
the poorer class, who assisted in doing the la- 
bor on those farm-*, usually drew their support 
from the surplus produce of them. But, from 
the small amount of stock which the business 
required, most of the poor entered into it ; and 
thus began, in some measure, to depend upon it 
for support. Of course, it became necessary 
for the merchants to introduce into their com- 
merce, articles of diet. And as domestic brea'd- 
stuffs, &c. could not be procured at hand in suf- 
ficient quantities for their purpose, they were 
obliged to depend upon another source. In this 
way the poor were rendered almost indepen- 
dent of the rich. This, too, often had a direct 
tendency to superinduce idleness and dissipation 
among them, as will be noticed elsewhere. 

And, indeed, I believe many farmers of the 
better sort neglected to raise grain, flax, kc. in 
so large quantities as they used to do ; for why 
should they labor and toil for food and clothing 
while they could be supplied at an easier rate ? 

(g) P. Stansbury, in his Pedestrian Tour, remarks, 
that the people of the '•' country parts and villasjes" of 
Canada, are much more frugal and economical in their 
food and,cl.)ihiiig, thau the people in the country parts 
>of the United States. 



Essay on the Mamifacture of Straic. 2o 

And as to flajr,,^^ they had it, it would be diffi- 
cr.it to get it mismufactured. And thus, by the 
straw merchants, were introduced flour, sugar, 
lea, coffee, kc. kc. And in families among the 
more wealth}^, as well as the poor, where these 
anicles had been used only as great luxuries, 
they became quite common. (A) 

Indeed, the plain, simple food to which they 
had been accustomed, could not be endured, 
while they could fare more sumptuonsly : and. 
indeed, it would have ill agreed with the gen- 
tility of the employment. But man, (like the 
tiger, who, it is said, when he has once tasted 
human flesh, never ceases to seek for it,) when 
his appetite ha«5 once been pampered with laxu- 
rier,, seldom fails (o desire and seek for them. — 
It may be remarked, however, that since the 
business has become less profitable, many fami- 
lies have in some measure returned to their 
former habits of prudence and frugal economy. 
And it is to be hoped that they may be better- 
ed by their experience — for man must be 
taught ia the school of adversity; it is as es- 
vSential to pros;>erit}^as winter is to summer. 

(/i) " In EiJiilarid and Scotland," says Silliman, in his 
jouTial of trav«!5-, " there is more ecoucny in the sup- 
plies of the table t'lian wilh u?, although there is cer- 
tainly not less contort ; there is aiwa)'s enough ; it is 
excellenf in its kini; and it is prepared in the best 
maimer. But a s'raager will rarely meet with that pro- 
fusion of good thin:';?, which is so common in our great 
towns. Thi? is a distinction which does not redound to 
the honour of our country, which, considering its age 
and its aieans, holdsiSi disreputable pre-eminence in lux- 
ury and extravagance," 

b4 



26 Essay on the Manufacture of Straw. 

Our ancestors were not only noted by the ac- 
tivity, industry, economy and frugality of their 
lives, the simplicity of their food and clothing-, 
but they were also distinguished for their strict 
morality, for their piety and devotedness to the 
'•cause of virtue and true religion." And, al- 
though they were industrious and frugal, yet 
they thought it their duty to honor God with 
their substance. But it must be confessed that the 
manners of the present times are very inimical 
to good mori*ls and true religion. Vice, error 
and delusion have evidently made an alarming- 
progress throughout our land during the last 
twenty-tive years ; and it u greatly to be fear- 
ed that nothing but the hard dealings of the 
hand of the Alm.ighty will be able to reform and 
save us from destruction. 

The luxury and refinement of modern times 
have been no less injurious to the moral and re- 
ligious, than to the political and military inter- 
ests of the country. No fact is more certain 
than that luxury and refinement have a direct 
tendency to enervate the physical powers of a 
nation. None but those who are sunk in luxu- 
ry and dissipation, will ever be likely to submit 
to the rule of a tyrant. 

'' The course that a free nation runs," says 
an able author, "is from virtuous industry, to 
wealth ; from wealth to luxury ; from luxury 
to an impatience of discipline, and corruption ; 
till by a total degeneracy and loss of virtue, be- 
ing grown ripe for destruction, it falls at last a 
prey to some hardy oppressor, and with the loss 
of liberty loses every thing else that is valua- 
ble." 



CHAPTER IV. 

Effects on the health of thofie employed in ihr- 
Manujacture. 

Ever since the fall, the life of man has been 
growing comparatively shorter. And it is his 
boa*!ted reason, which has, by becoming the 
pander of his appetites, reduced his life from a 
thousand years to " three score years and ten." 
No fact is more certain or more generally ad- 
mitted, than that civilization and retinement, 
although they may add much to the enjoyment 
of life, (j) yet, that they also greatly increase 
the number and complication of its diseases. 
The diseases of savage life are few and simple ; 
while those of civilized life are so many and so 
complicated, that it requires along life of observa- 
tion and experience in order thoroughly to under- 
stand them. To attempt, were it practicable, an 
investigation of all the diseases which have been 
induced by this employment is not my intention; 
nor would it be proper in a work of this kind. 
All that I shall attempt is, to shew, that the 
change of habits which the employment caused, 
had a tendency to superinduce diseases. That 
'xercire which the employment of females re- 
quired, previous to the introduction of this em- 

(/) But sensual enjoyment is not essential to real hap- 
puiess. Did Adam and Eve, (or do their fallen race) 
realize ?. greater proportion of happiness after they had 
eaten of '' the fruit of that forbidden tree," than when 
they lived in all the simplicity of nature? " Their feast 
"vvas elegant, but it "was the elegance of nature ; no darts 
of death, hid in rirh sauces, struck with unhospitable 
i'low the unthinking guest." 
b5 



m 



28 Essay on (he Manufacture of Straxi:. 

ployment, was very conducive to their good 
health. It likewise tended to increase the size 
and strength of their bodies, and to' render them 
more tirm and vigorous. And by its variety, it 
v/a^ in a great degree conducive to the improve- 
ment oftheir mincis. But by this employment their 
whole habits in life became changed. It has 
been remarked by physicians that the eiJects ol 
disease upon the human body are different now. 
from what they were twenty-five or thirty year.? 
ago. If so, in my opinion, it must be attribut- 
ed to the change of habits v/hich has taken 
place. 

The sitting posture which the employment 
required precluded the po-sibility of using suf 
ficient exercise for the good of the body, and 
the increasing expenses of females in regard to 
dress often induced them to increase their dili- 
gence. And thus time could not often be spar- 
ed for exercise. The poor, likewise, who de- 
pended entirely upon it for subsistence, were 
obliged to use all diligence. From hence, it 
it may be inferred, that, most of the di?eases- 
which have arisen in consequence of this em- 
ployment, v.ere caused by its preventing the 
employed from using sufficient and proper ex- 
ercise. Most of the diseases, which arise in 
consequence of a want of exercise, are of a 
chronic nature, or those of long standing. One 
of the most frequent diseases arising from this 
cause is indigestion; and with it are generally 
connected, foul stomach and mouth, acid 
erqctations or heartburn, eruptions on the 
skin and face, nervous or sick headache, morn- 
ing si'^kness, carious teeth, want or loss of an- 



# 



Essay on the Manufacture of Strazi'. 29 

petites, lowness of spirits, srocfula, asthma, 
jaundice, cosliveness and piles, and all their 
concomitant attendants. Without siifficient 
and proper exercise, it is impossible for the 
food to be properly assimilated, without it, all 
the excretions of ihe body, as the perspiration &c. 
will be disordered, or will not take place in a 
sufficient quantity and proper manner. Exer- 
cise is indispensible to the proper circulation of 
the blood. Without a proper circulation of the 
blood, it is rendered weak and vitiated, and the 
solids or flesh, consequently become soft or 
flaccid. That '' blooming" tincture of the skin," 
the sure indication of health, depends in a great 
measure upon a brisk and proper circulation of 
the blood ; whereas that pale sallow counte- 
nance, the indication of vapours, hysterics and 
nightmare, is a most certain evidence of a feeble 
lang-uid circulation of that fluid. 

To obviate this want of exercise, and to af- 
ford opportunities to wear their fine dresses, 
halls and dancing schools were resorted to. But 
their changing their ordinary dresses for those 
which were thiner, and their attending themju 
the dread nights of winter, often rendered them 
a greater evil than the one which they were 
intended to remedy. And their being confined 
during the day to a sitting posture within doors, 
rendered them unable to endure much exercise 
or exposure; and hence oiten arose cold;!, 
coughs, consumptions, and many other disorders. 

The effects of dress, though less extensive, 
have been in some respects but little less per- 
nicious. For the value of clothing as well as of 
many other things, is not always determined hv 



30 Essay on the Manufacture of Strwn:. 

their use or convenience ; but it is g-enerally 
the only inquirv, ^' Is it eies^ant ? Is it fashion- 
able?" and thus custom and fashion, often be- 
come the tyrants of reason and prudence. The 
tight dresses, •>vhich females, (and indeed some 
males,) have almost universally worn, in order 
to improve the perfection of nature's workman- 
ship, have been the source of many di-iordevs of 
the chest which were in former time- but little 
known. Th(i tightness of dress, by compressing 
the lungs, much impedes rei^[)iration, and cense 
quenily the circulation of the blood. For this 
cannot take place freely without a free expan- 
sion of the lungs. Hence often arise dizziness, 
verdgo, faintings, palpitation, pains in the side 
&LC. It is impossible to take sufficient food or 
exercise in a tight dress, besides it is one of the 
immediate cau-'es of costiveness and indigestion. 

The position in which those engaged in the 
business, have generally carried their heads 
while at work, has had a direct tendency to 
make them round shouldered, or to carry their 
heads farther forward than is natural ; and a stiff 
dress by rendering it difficult to bend the body, 
only increa'^es the mischief. 

Many other dilnculties, and especiall}^ (hose 
to which females are peculiarly liable, might be 
pointed out, as arising from, and being increased 
by the want of sufficient exerci'^e and wearing 
tight dresses. But sufficient has already been 
said upon this subject. 

To the want of exercise and change ia- dress, 
may be added the change in diet. Food of the 
simplest kind, is known by experience, to give 
the most permanent strength and vigour to the 



Essay on the Manvjacture of Straw. 3i 

body, and the appetite may be longer accustom- 
ed to it without becoming' satiated. But in this 
instance, their former simple, solid and whole- 
some articles of food, were changed for tlour, 
tea, coffee, spices, &c. kc. But these niceties, 
added to their want of exercise, and their con- 
fmement within doors, had a tendency in ren- 
der their f>ersons extremely delicate. And yet 
there is •cornel hing so indelicate in appearing 
hale, hearty and stout like a ro«y milkmaid. !hat 
a very Tmo and \ery high bred lady is ready to 
faint at the idea. But the torf jre of disease, is 
always exasperated by luxury ; and increased 
and promoted by softness. 

Luxi! y and rerinement in any age or nation, 
are snthcient lo contaminate the very source of 
population. The truth of this proposition 
might be evinced by adverting to the histor} of 
the world in the remote ages of antiquity, (/c) 
And it may be asked, do females become moth- 
ers and nurses wiih as little difficulty n^ they 
did twenty-fn e years ago ? Let experience an- 
swer. 

As but very little sliill was required in the 
art of straw brnidiug, very small children were 
often employed at i'. These were oi\en en- 
couraged to apply themselves to it by the prom- 

(/c) See the first Chapter of the book of Exodus. 
Here the effects of luxury and refinement are striking- 
ly set forth by a 'comparison between " th^ Kgypiian 
"Women" and the hard-labouring and oppressed He'irews. 
Durins; the residence of the Israelites in Eo;ypt, their 
number increased from seventy persons, to six hundred 
thousand fighting men ; nolwiUistanding their -evero 
oppression, which was no doubt the chief cause of thei' 
great increase. 



32 Essay on the Manufacture of ,'btra-^. 

ise of fine things, and often by the roJ. — 
Mi«s was often set down to her straw, before she 
was able to dres3 herself. And many a lusty 
boy. who ought to have been taught to use his 
limbs, to extend his muscles, and to qualify him- 
self for some useful and honorable employment, 
was doomed to confinement within doors, at this 
insignificant employment ; and thereby to ruin 
liis constitution. It was likewise introduced 
into onr common Summer Schools; and children 
instead of getting their lessons, were often re- 
quired to do their tasks at straw braiding. And 
no doubt many children have been deprived 
from attending school, in order to follow this 
employment. Manv of the larger girls, were 
often, no doabt, induced to leave their schools 
in order that they might be enabled to purchase 
fine dresses. Parents of the poorer classes, de- 
pended greatl}'^ upon their '•children's braid"^ 
for the support of their families. And indeed 
some parents of the better sort, to use their own 
words, ''kept their children at it, for all that 
we can get out of them li clear gain." But 
little thought the deluded parents that by de- 
priving their children of exercise at this tender 
age, they were sowing the seeds of diseases, 
which time could not eradicate. 

The employment was so simple in its opera- 
tion, that it required but a very little exercise 
of the mental faculties. And it may be fairlj^ 
questioned, whether the mind, in con-equence 
of this employment, has suffered less than the 
body. By the want of active and proper cm- 
plo\ ment for both mind and body, the imagina- 



Kasaij on the Alamijactiire cf Strazv 33 

tiun often becomes vitiated, the passions infiam- 
ecl, and tiie morals endangered. 

The mind and bodj are so dependant upon 

each other, tLiit without a healthy state of the 

one, the other is apt to become disordered. 

And that diseases are often invited, and always 

■ made worse by a disordered slate of tlie mind, 

I DO one will pretend te deny. And in this way, 

t'^ the size of their bodies are often made less, as 

well as less firm and vigorous ; their minds are 

often enervated, and they become less competent 

to the cares, the business, and burdens of life. 

In every condition of life, there seems to fall to 
the lot cf females .i great share of unhappiness. 
And,, " it were to be wished," says Dr. John- 
son, that so great a degree of natural infelicity 
might not be increased by adventitious and arti- 
licial miseries ; and, that beings whose beauty 
,*" we cannot behold without admiration, and whose 
delicacy we cannot contemplate without tender- 
ness, might be suffered to enjoy every allevia- 
tion of their sorrows. 



CHAPTER V. 

JElffects of the employment upon the general char- 
acter, manners^ habits, and employments of the 
males. 

That weak and defenceless condition in which 
females are by nature placed, has rendered them 
in a cjreat measure dependant i]pon the male 
sex, for succor and support. Yet they are of 
little less importance than the other sex; not 
only as it respects their proper employment in 
life, but as it respects the general happiness of 
mankind, it seldom happen* in civilized life 
that females are very productive laborers ; and 
indeed, cu«tom has rendered it inconsistent with 
their proper character. But in the instance 
now before us, unmarried females have been 
the most productive class of laborers in society. 
And in this vvav they became independent of 
the males, at least, in regard to food and cloth- 
ing. , Females, indeed, in most country towns, 
have not only been the most productive cla>3 of 
laborers for the last twenty years, but they 
have also been the mo^t industrious. For pre- 
vious to the introduction of the straw business 
they were industrious bv custom ; during its 
prosperity they were rendered so by vanity, or 
in order not to be out-done by others ; and 
since the decline of the business, they have, 
many of them, been injpellFtl by neces-ity to be 
industrious, in order to keep up their former 
appearances. 

Most of the persons engaged in the bu-iness 
have been unmarried females; consequently its 



Essay on the Manufacture of Straxi). 35 

effect? have been greatest upon the unmarried 
of the other sex. Now, the employment not 
only rendered the females independent of the 
males, but it al'^o ^ave them a decided superi- 
ority over them, particularly in the articles of 
clothing. But equality is one of the essential 
bonds of society. Without equality, there can 
be no sympathy. Without equality, there is^ 
apt to be a separation of interests. VVhereas, it 
is essential to the social intercourse of the sex- 
es, that their interests be the same. 

As most of the females engaged in this em- 
ployment were in single life, and as their earn- 
ings were generally at their own disposal, they 
wei'e too often induced, in hopes of distinguish- 
ing themselves, to expend their gains in self- 
aggrandizement'« ; and in order to sympathize 
with them, it become necessary for the males 
to follow their example. Hut the profits 
of agriculture, or indeed, of scarcely any other 
employment in a country town were not suffic- 
ient to support a dress equal to that of the la- 
dies. (V) Add to this, that the females had 
entirely neglected to manufacture any articles 
of clothing. Our fine dressed ladies too, of- 
ten considered them*>elves as superior to a farm- 
er. And an employment which is not thought 
to be honourable, will not long be followed, 
without great profits. For who indeed could 
bear to be called a clown ? In some instances 
the ladies assisted the gentlemen of their own 
families, in procuring clothing. But the effects 

(0 Many young men in order to enjoy the profits of 
the business with the ladies, were effeminate enough 
to be seen engaged in straw-braiding ! 



36 Essay on the Manvfaciure of Strcrj^. 

of this were but little less pernicious. For let 
our young gentlemen be once linely drepsej, 
and it would be very likely to set them above 
the dirty employment of fa rmer;j. , The alTecteil 
delicacy of young- men at the ])resent day, has 
induced them to imagine that they are unable 
to endure the lal)Our required in farming. Ikit 
certainly without sufhcient rea>on ; for if any 
employment may be called healthy, it mM^i be 
that of agriculture. If any thing has caused a 
delicacy among our young men, it must be for 
the want of daily habits of industry, (m) Thus 
the ungenlility, and the slow profits, of the 
farming business ; and above all, the rage for 
becoming fine gentlemen, (in order to sympa- 
thize with the ladies.) induced many young 
men to' leave the employment. It is a fact 
which is confirmed by observation, that a great 
majority of the young men, who come to maturi- 
ty in this part of the country, leave their homes 
and engage in some other employment. But 
this is more particularly the ca.-e in the straw- 
braiding towns. INI any of them engage in me- 
chanical, manufacturing or mercantile pursuits. 
Some leave the country for the seaport towns ; 

(ni) Our defective and traditional methods of agri- 
culture, (hat is leaving many things to the spon^.anc- 
ous production of nuture, have a direct tendency to 
prevent the steady employment of farmers. Much 
ir»ay bs expected from our agricultural societies ; but 
it may be lairly questioned, -whether much good has 
yet been done by the premiums which have been award- 
ed. Would it not be better to appropriate a part of the 
proceeds of the funds to tlie making of experiments ou 
philosophical principles, and publishing the results peri- 
odically for the benefit of the members and others ? 



la^^cnj on the Manufacture of Straw. 37 



waul," many of whom, on account of the un- 
heaitliiness oi the climate, never return. Some 
go for a while to a boarding- school or an acad- 
em}', and gain just sufficient knowledge to give 
them a di^j relish for labor, and make them ped- 
ants, school-masters and gentlemen for life. — 
Others grappling with a scanty fortune, grope 
their way *'- through College." 

In som^ instances it had a direct tendency to 
induce idleness among the males, especially 
among those of the poorer classes. For while 
their families could be maintained without their 
laboring, they would not be very likely to labor. 



Ahd to the disgrace of the men, it was fre- 
quently said of many families, that " the woman 
and her children do all towards supporting the 
family." Thus the man was left to spend his 
time in idleness at the grog-shop or elsewhere. 

Many new ways and inventions to get money, 
in order to support the appearance of gentle- 
men, were resorted to. In the town of Attle- 
borough, which has been famous for " new in- 
ventions," an employment was introduced, 
which for some time, bid fair to supply the nec- 
essary sums of money. This was no other than 
the manufacture of jewelry. Some account of 
which, will be given at the end of this chap- 
ter. # 

Although the hopes of being one day able to 
purchase the luxuries of dress, equipage, &c. 
may be a great excitement to industry, yet the 
indulgence in them is always pernicious among 
a people whose form of government is Republi- 
can. If industry always increased so as to 



33 Essay on the Manufacture of Siraxv. 

equal the expenses of luxury, no evils would be 
likely to arise. But pride, with its usual atten- 
dants, idleness and prodigality, are much ollen- 
er induced by luxury, than industry and frugal- 
ity. 

Onr ancestors were noted lor their industry, 
frugaiily, hospitality and many other of the so- 
cial virtues ; but the luxury and refinement of 
modern times, has evidently superinduced a 
spirit of selfishness. When by means of manu- 
factures and commerce, luxuries are introduced 
into a country, it is apt to be detrimental to so- 
ciability, hospitality and a mutual participation 
of good offices. For while mankind possess the 
power and the inclination to spend their whole 
income in self-aggrandizement, they will not be 
very likely to take a lively interest in the wel- 
fare of others. Thus the desire for line dresses, 
houses, equipage, &c. has rendered that vile 
maxim '<• all for ourselves and nothing for oth- 
ers," in too many instances but too true. (?i) 

Were not our ancestors of both sexes, with 
all their simplicity cf manners, as much res- 
pected by each other as they are at the present 
day? If so, would it not h:ive been better for 
society, had those manners continued ? Instead 
of them, a young gentleman at the present day, 
must be a man of spirit; he must support a 
fashionable and cosily dress, equipage, &:c. &c. 

(n) " From Worcester to College."" This is an old 
adage which had its origin in this circumstance. The 
people of Worcester county, from the^richness and ler- 
tililyofits soil, joined to their industry and frugality, 
were enabled to send many of their sons to College, hut 
since the introduction of luxuries, this practice, I be- 
lieve, is not so common. 



Essay on the Manvfacture of Straxs. SS 

be must have a plenty of money to ?pend at 
balls, rides, public as^emlilies, &,c. But above 
all he must not follow the employment of a 
farmer, for none but the dullest of clowns can 
ever submit to an employment like this. What ! 
a youn^ buck of the times, seen plodding at the 
plough for a support ? Indeed, this; is what no 
man of spiiit will ever submit to. And where 
you ask is the evil ? They are so many and 
so great, that it is almost impossible to detail 
them. Out however, a few of them 1 will at- 
tempt to notice. It often induces young men to 
set too high a value upon themselves, and to 
incur expenses which their incomes will not al- 
low. And if they do not get in debt, which is 
too often the case, they seldom lay up any thing 
for another day, or to support a family. But 
few of them enter, at least early, into the mar- 
riage state, for this would be incurring an ex- 
pense which would certainly prevent them from 
figuring They not only spend their money, 
but much of their time, often contracting habits 
of idleness and dissipation. And in fine, if these 
practices become universally prevalent through- 
out our country, they may prove its ruin. And 
what, let me ask, has caused these evils, ;md 
what is able to remove them. The opinion and 
influence of females ! This may appear at first 
view to be a bold assertion. But if any doubt 
the strength or power of woman, 1st them con- 
sult history, ancient as well as modern. Not 
only the will of individuals, but nations are of- 
ten swayed by their power. Let (hem look in- 
to the volume of holy writ, and behold the 
c2 



40 Essay on the Manvfacture of Sir axe. 

achievements of u'omen.(o) It will be fuflic- 
ient to niention the names of Rebecca, Delilah, 
Abigail and Esther. 

In every thing relating to fashion, the infln- 
ence of females is unbounded. And for the last 
twenty-five jears, the gay dres«, the external 
graces, the frivolous accomplishments of that 
impertinent and fooli-h thing called a man of 
fashion, have been, by the females of this por- 
tion of our country, much more respected, than 
the solid and masculine virtues of the industri- 
ous, frugal and independant farmer of ninety- 
six.(/>) 

It may be said by some thai; we need not be 
under any serious apprehension about the evils, 
which may hereafter arise from the straw 
business; because of the small extent of coun- 
try over which it has spread, and of its decline. 
But it may be answered, the effect still remains, 
although the cause may be removed. Their 
desires and propensities still continue. And in 
this respect, " they are like *a man weakened 
by sickness, who is without passions because he 
is without strength." We may learn also from 
these circumstances, what would take place 
throughout our country, did not the want of 
means, and the absence of temptation prevent 
it. 

(o) See the fourth chapter of the first Apocryphal 
book of Esdras. 

(;>) And why ? Because he alone can sj-mppthize 
■with thera. And thus ignorance and even poverty hi a 
costly attire, are often allowed to predominate over 
unassuming merit. 



Essay on the Manufacture of Straw. 41 

In concluding this chapter, perhaps I cannot 
do better th.m to cite the words of the author 
of the Brief Kemariier, (9.) 

It is for the daughters of our America to co- 
operate in supporting and perpetuating the in- 
dependance, and the many inestimable priv- 
ileges, which her sons have achieved by their 
valour, and with their blood. On the purity of 
their morals, and the prudence and propriety 
of their conduct, the permanence and weal of 
this great republic, and the hopes of genera- 
tions to come essentially depend. Nor was 
there perhaps ever a crisis, so urgently de- 
manding their aid, or so auspicious to their ex- 
ertions as the one which now presents itself. 
The unexampled events of a late series of years 
liave caused in this young republic a direful 
revolution ; a revolution from uncostly simplici- 
ty, to unbounded extravagance; and not only 
producing unmeasurable embarrassments and 
distress, but threatening the destruction of mor- 
als and the extinction of liberty. This deadly 
disorder, which has been corrupting the stam- 
ina of the American public, which no laws era 
reach, and which the physical strength of no 
arm of tlesh can romove, is removeable by 
moral force. The great desideratum is to bring 
into fashion the industry and frugality of former 
ages. This would open again upon our horizon, 

{q) This invaluable work was written by Ezra 
Sampson, of N. Y. Author of the Beauties of the 
Bible &c. A school edition of this work has been 
published, and from its intrinsic merit, it ought to be 
introduced as a reading book, into tiie schools and 
academies throughout the U. States. 



42 Essay on the Manufaclure of Straw. 

the prospects which have been so fiightfuUy 
blasted. And who can accomplish it but the 
respectable females of" our country ? Their 
voice unitedly raised in this holy cause, like the 
sound of the harp of the son of Jesse, might dis- 
.possess the evil spirit, which has hurried, and 
is now hurrying so many to ruin, and would be 
the harbinger of a political Millennium. Would 
they frown upon the idle and foppish, and be- 
stow their smiles upon the industrious and fru- 
g-al, they might effectually check the thought- 
less extravagance of the other sex; with all the 
better part of which, this kind of restrictive 
system from the female court of fashion, would 
be as a law written in the heart. Would they 
form themselves into societies, (r) for the pur- 
pose of promoting industry and frugal economy, 
and make their practice correspond to their pro- 
fessions, it might change the face of things from 
sad to joyous, — ''• Recorded honours would 
thicken round them," and generations nQ\y pn^ 
born would do homage to their memories. 



A brief account of the manujacture of Jeicclry in 
the towji of Attleborough^i and its moral ejects. 
Jewelry was first made in Attleborough, 1 be- 
lieve, about the year 1800, but it was not man- 
ufactured in very large quantities till some 
time afterwards. It consisted of a g)'eat variety 
(r) As woman was first in the transgression, so she 
was a principal instrument in the restoration. And as 
she is generally the first to indulge in luxury and ex- 
travagance, let her be the first to attempt a reformation 



Essay on the Alanujacturc of 'Sira~j:. 43 

of articles of ornament, such as iing-er rings, 
beads, breast-pins &.C. Arc! for some time it 
made a considerable addition to the dress of tiie 
ladies. 

The material of which it was at first made, 
was an alloy of g-old with copper, and some gold 
and silver plated. But the desire for gain, and 
the facility of deception reduced it by degrees 
to mere copper, or copper gilt. The cheapness 
of the material, however, was not so much in 
the fault, but knaves and scoundrels would too 
often take the advantage of it to deceive the 
honest and unsuspecting. And like a swarm of 
locusts, the ''jewelry pedlars'' overrun the coun- 
l.ry from Maine to Georgia. In the common lan- 
guage of the times, it was " one of the greatest 
cheats ever known." But such was the decep- 
tion usually attached to it, that the business coii- 
!inued profitable but for a few years ; as but few 
persons would buy it a second time. But its 
moral effects are more lasting. Such was the 
facility with which it was manufactured, such 
the demand for it, and such the sums of money 
to be got by it, that many young men were in- 
duced to enter into the business. From forty 
to eighty dollars have been made at it in a 
month, by a single person. But it has been ob- 
served, that they who acquire large sums of 
money without much labor or pains, are gener- 
ally either prodigal or covetous. And so it was 
in this case ; the greater part of those employ- 
ed in this business were of the form.er class. — 
Young men taking no '' thought for the mor- 
row," but spending their whole earnings as fast 
as they could get them, and often faster, in lux- 
c4 



41 E^isay on iJie Manufacture of Stra^ji). 

urious and " riotoir? living'." And for a long" 
time, nobody seemed to be held so much in res- 
pect as the jeweJler.-. Was there to be a ball,, 
who were to be the managers ? Why, jewellers ! 
Was there a g-reat beauty, or a rich heiress to 
be won, who must doit? A jeweller! Who 
must have the military commissions ? Jewellers, 
to be sure. Who must spend the most time and 
money, and drink the most at taverns and grog-- 
shops? Jewellers. Who staked the largest sums 
and were oftenest at the gambling tables ? Why,,, 
jewellers. Great was the honor in >vhich they 
were had by all, and especially by the ladieis„. 
Such was their pride, extravagance, arrogance 
and insolence, that they despised all who would 
not,, or could not equal them in prodigality. — - 
Thus, with ''erected faces," would the ol'ten pass 
by, despi-^e and ridicule an honest and industri- 
ous young farmer ; while the latter was often 
weak enough to sigh and exclaim, " O, that I 
was a Jeweller!" And thus, he was often induc- 
ed to leave a life of comparative innocence, to 
which but iew have ever returned, for this 
proiligate employment. 

It is astonishing to what lengths of wicked- 
ness mankind will go when they have once 
broken over a sense of moral rectitude. And 
in ihis instance, the [gambling principle upon 
which the business was usually carried on, (that 
is, to cheat all you can,) had a direct tendency 
to introduce into the town, gambling, fraud and 
deception ; which have increased to an alarm- 
ing degree, and have corrupted the morals and 
ruined the characters and minds of many. Ip 
short, immorality, vice, irreiigion aiMliic^ntJor-' 



Essay on the Manufacture of Strati}. 45 

ness, have, by the contagion of example, in- 
creased to such a height in that town, that it 
has been the means of introducing the pernic- 
ious doctrines of a sect, who consider themselves 
unaccountable for any of their actions,(5) and 
whose motto is, ''• do what you will, God is not 
angry with you, nor never will be."(^) 

{s) Liberal preachers and preaching have become 
quite popular and fashionable at the present day. And 
it is a subject of regret that many of the ministers of 
Ihf gospel, 

'■'' Who seldom mention hell te ears poJite^'^'' 
Seem more anxious to please man than his Maker.'— 
From what this proceeds, I shall not attempt to tell ;. 
although it would seem that it must proceed from the 
iove of worldly objects. But, however this may be, 
certain it is, that nothing but ^' downright honesty and 
plain dealmg," will be able to stand the ordeal of the 
iire of that day, which we are told, " shall burn as an 
oven." But, perhaps some may be ready to ask, Who 
made you a reprover? 1 answer, (he iniquities of the 
land cry out for judgment. And if the wickedness of 
mankind at the present day, is not a sufficient induce- 
ment to the ministers of the gospel to ''cry aloud and 
spare not," then not only my voice, but the blood of the 
people will rise up in judgment against them. 

(0 Carrique, 

g5 



. CHAPTER VI. 

Effects of (he employment upon the social inicr- 
course of the sexes. 

Most of the effects which are attributed to 
the straw business, have been caused by its be- 
ing the means of the introduction of luxuries, 
into the geveral towns, in which it has been 
carried on. And so far as it has been the means 
of their introduction, so far have its effects been 
attributed to a right cause. In the preceding 
chapters notice has been taken of the introduc- 
tion of luxuries and some of their effects. In 
this chapter notice will be taken of its effects 
upon the social intercourse of the sexes. 

Luxury is founded in inequality, therefore 
without inequality there can be no luxury, '' lux- 
ury," says Montesquieu, " is always in proportion 
to the inequality of fortunes. If the riches of a 
state are equally divided there will be no lux- 
ury ; for it is founded merely on the conveniences 
acquired by the labour of others'" Now what 
holds true in regard to any state, must hold true 
in regard to the individuals which compose that 
state. 

It makes no difference in what manner luxuries 
are introduced, their effects will always be the 
same. For some will be able to procure tiiem 
while others will not. In the instance now be- 
fore us the females possessed the means of pro- 
curing them while the males did not. And by 
indulging in them an immediate injury was felt 
by society. 



Essay on the Manujaciure of Siraio 47 

That marriage, at least early marriage, i? less 
frequent and less general than it was Ibrmeriy, 
is a flict sufficiently proved by observation. 
Many of the facts noticed in the preceding chap- 
ter, may in some measure account for this. 
Among which may be particuiarly noticed the 
neglect of the employment of agriculture. 
This employment is very favourable to domes- 
tic happiness, and the union of the sexes. It 
renders a man independant; and it is less liable 
to the fluctuations of chance. «' Farmers," says 
Dr. Morse, "have less need of money than any 
other class of people. The ease with which a 
comfortable subsistence is obtained, often in- 
duces the husbandman to marry young." 
But it is different with most other employ- 
ments. In most of which an apprenticeship, 
and a stock of money are generally required ; 
besides almost an entire dependance upon the 
will of others. 

It is to be regretted that young men at the 
present day are not more attached to their 
homes. By wandering abroad, they form a dis- 
relish for steady employments, expose them- 
selves to many temptations, and often learn to 
gratify those passions, which ought, and would 
naturally lead them to an honourable and vir- 
tuous connection with the other sex. For the 
libertine will seldom marry, till a rottenness of 
bones, and a dissipation of fortune, have render- 
ed a nurse and a dowry desirable. How many 
do we see young in years yet old in constitution, 
who given up " to their own heart's lust," have 



lo Essay on the Manufacture of Straw. 

ear'y progressed to decripitude and decay, (^uj 
The great superiority in dress which the enn- 
ployment ^ayq the females over the males, of- 
ten set theai above their real conditions in life, 
and even sometimes made them affect to ridi- 
cule and despise those of the other sex, who 
were their equals, and perhaps their superiors 
in every other respect. But man is of such a 
nature that he will hardly be despised a second 
time, before he learns to despise. To value 
ourselves above our equals on account of dress, 
accomplishments or indeed on any other account^ 
must be the effect of pride. Besides it is general- 
ly, (at one time or another) attended with evil 
consequences. Many of the young ladies sup- 
ported themselves for a while at an academy or 
a boarding school. Here they usually acquire 
a superticial knowledge of some few of th 
sciences; and perhaps a few mere accomplisi 
ments ; sufficient however, to give them a hi'rl 
opinion of themselves, and often unfit them i'^ • 
the more humble, though more useful domesii- 
dutics. 

In some instances the ladies would not asso- 
ciate with ihe gentlemen of tlieir neighbour- 
iiood, or at least with but few ot them, at balls, 
parties of pleai«are &.c. And in others, the la- 
dies, to use their own words, " would go to a 
ball or a ride with them but would not keep 
their company." Asa proof of these last menti- 

(?/) Evil, misery, pain, disease, and CNi-en death itself 
ever follow hard at the hoels of sm ; and the hsuirnist 
lellsus that by the iniquities of the children of Israel. 
*'• The fire consumed their young men, and their maid- 
ens were not given to marriage. Psalm 68. 



Essay on the Manufacture of Straw. 4§ 

oned circumstances, might be noticed the fr\ct^ 
that many or most young- men who marry diti 
not, or do not choose their wives amongf their 
neighboiirs. But they usually sought, and in a 
great measure stil! seek them at a distance, or 
take those whom mere chance throws in their 
way. 

Many of the ladies, no doubt, were averse to 
marriage. For who (unless they could obtain 
a splendid settlement.) while they could have 
the exquisite pleasure of displaying a fine dress 
and tine person would think of taking upon them- 
selves the care of a family? Besides it would 
in a great measure prevent them from follow- 
ing this proiitable employment. It is no der- 
ogation from the general character of females, 
to say that they would commonly marry, if they 
couhl form connections which were agreeable 
to them. But as the employment rendered 
ihem in some measure independent of the males 
they would not be likely to marry unless the 
connexion was very advantageous or agreeable. 
The independence of the females, was often an 
inducement to them to practice the arts of co- 
quetry. And perhaps in no country place, was 
it ever carried to such an extent ; nor perhaps 
was it ever attended with more fatal consequen- 
ces. 

Fem^^es who supply our cotton mills have 
generally come from a distance. Now if females 
residing in our manufacturing towns had supplied 
the mills (as moat of the hands are females,) it 
would have prevented this inllux, and likewise 
have kept up the credit of the employment. — 
Rat when thej' were most wanted, they were in 



50 Essay on the Munufaclure of Straw. 

better business. Now those girls who came 
from a distance, either for the purpose of work- 
ing in cotton mills, or at the straw business, had 
probably not been taught to consider themselves 
as superior to other persons. And therefore, 
the first addresses of any young gentleman dis- 
posed to marry, were usually accepted. And it 
is a fact, that has been sometimes a cause of en- 
vy and complaint, that those girls who have 
come from a distance have generally been more 
successful ; and indeed have generally been pre- 
ferred by the gentlemen, to those which have 
always lived in the towns, into which they came. 
For this preference I can give no other than the 
above reasons. And indeed, the expectations 
of those girls fi'om a distance have not general- 
ly been so high ; nor have they commonly been ..^^J 
so punctilious about those expensive attentions! 
usually required by others ; and which the con- 
dition of the gentlemen often rendered them uu^J 
willing or unable i^ bear. 

It is a fact which is confirmed by observation 
from whatever causes it may have proceeded, 
that the number of unmarried females, in the 
straw braiding towns, is far superior to the num- 
ber of unmarried males. (r) And as far as my 
observation extends, the number of young 
married persons is inferior to what it was twen- 
ty years ago. 

In all the large seaport towns, throughout our 

country, the number of females is superior to 

» '■ 

(v) According to the last census, in some of the 
straw braiding towns, the proportion of unmarried fe- 
males to that of the unmarried males, between the 
age of fifteen and twenty-five or six, was as five to two. 



Essay on the Manvjacturc of Sirazi;. 51 

the mnles.('Zi') But in the country towns the 
levcrse of this is generally trup. Now the 
sntne causes, which make this (iiiTerence in the 
seaport?, if they take place in the country, must 
produce the same effects there. Late marriages 
caused by the greater extent of luxury, and 
the roving or the seafaring life of the inhabitants 
of seaports, are among the princi{)le causes 
which produce this efTect in them. The same 
can.-es may have contributed to make this difl'er- 
ence between the number of the sexes in the 
count j-y. 

These causes must have in process of time, 
if they have not already had, a great efiect upon 
the population of those towns. 

Passion or prudence is generally the cause of 
marriage. And sometimes they Woth operate 
together. But our climate in a great m.easr.re 
precludes the influence of passion and therefore 
they are generally with us, directed by prudence 
But as marriage, under a proper direction, is 
the source of some of the sweetest consolations 
in this life, Ccnd as it is the ?tate for which God 
and nature and reason and virtue evidently de- 
signed mankind; the neglect of it must proceed 
from ignorance, a bad taste, a bad heart, a bad 
education, or from the fear of incurring greater 
evils than can arise from a state of celibacy. 

(«") hi nil the Inrge sea port towns, (accoriline: to the 
last census,) there were 109 females to 100 males. In 
the whole United States there are but 95 females to 100 
males. This will give to the ccunlry a largo majority 
more of males than females. It is a fact generally con- 
ceded, that there are ivi iliis, a? well as in uost civ- 
ilized countries, move mabs born than females. 



52 Essay on the Manufacture of Strain. 

I shall here add a passage from '' The death 
of Abel ;" which, although it was applied to 
the state of man before the fall, may in some 
measure be applied to the inhabitants of many 
of our country towns before the introdiction of 
luxuries. " Thus happy was man ! thus pure 
were his delights. The fruitful earth refresh- 
ed and fitted him for action by her bounties, — 
Content with necessaries, he asks only heaven, 
virtue and health. Luxury and di^^content had 
not yet filled him with insatiable desires, vv'hich, 
inventive of numberless wants, bury him under 
a load of splendid miseries. A union of hearts 
then formed the nuptial ties. No fear of wast- 
ing penury, or the frown of tyrannic parents ; 
no want of lands or gold, then kept the soft 
maid from the bosom of the youth she loved. — 
These cares are thy gifts. O Luxury !" 

When luxuries were introduced into a coun- 
try, custom and fashion are too apt to induce 
persons to indulge in them. But the consequen- 
ces are generally injurious to social intercourse 
and the union of the sexes. Because many will 
forbear to marry, because it will increase their 
expenses and thus prevent them from keeping 
up a genteel appearance, while others by in- 
dulging in them, render themselves too poor to 
marry. 

We are informed by historians, that it was by 
the introduction of luxuries that marriage was 
brought into disrepute at Rome. 

"One hundred and ninety years before the chris- 
tian era, the Romans tor the first time entered 
Asia with an army, which under Scipio defeated 
and conquered Antiochus, the Great, of Syria. 



Essay on the Manufacture of Strazv. 53 

and from thence brought home such a taste for 
the luxuries of the east, as promoted and hast- 
ened the ruin of their commonwealth; and in 
no way more directly, than by a practical for- 
biddance of marriage. "(x) — Brief Remarker. 

And that this was one great cause of the de- 
cline of that republic. And, although by their 
laws, females were subject to a perpetual guard- 
ianship, and were consequently entirely de- 
pendant upon the males, yet when a taste for 
luxuries was formed, their influence was sujffic- 
ient to obtain the means to procure them. 

But among us the ladies have had a good excuse 
for indulging in luxuries, although their effects 
have not been the less pernicious. Because they 
have been enabled to procure them, in some 
measure, without the assistance of the males.— 
But since the decline of the business, and females 
can hardly support themselves at this or any 
other employment, they have began, in some 
degree, to realize their dependance. And it is 
to be hoped that this circumstance will have a 
good effect upon the social intercourse of the 
sexes, and that a due sense of mutual dependanc<^ 
and assistance may be felt, and its good conse- 
quences realized. 

By what has been said in this chapter, it will be 
perceived that the effects ot luxury generally 
come hardest upon females. It being so insepa- 
rably connected with vanity and frivolity, that it 
often renders them alternately tyrants and vic- 
tims, " And it is only in countries where liberty 
and reason predominate, that they are the happy 

(x) " The misfortunes of Rome sprung from her own 
bosom." — Whelpley. 



54 Eisay on the Manufacture of Straio 

companions orhusbanil.s of their own choice, and 
the respectable mothers of tender fomiiics raided 
by their c:ire." 

It is to be regretted that young- person-"^ at the 
present day, have evinentiy pursued pleasure 
rather than happiness, (y). and endeavored to ex- 
cite admiration, rather than to procure respect. 
But perhaps there are no two objects more un- 
like than pleasure and happiness ; and it is by 
no means necessary to excite admiration, in or- 
der to be respected and esteemed, and mankind 
are of such a nature that what they only admire, 
they are very apt to despise. But says Mr. 

(i/) '^ Why is it that hsppuiess does not always make 
one merry ?'' because " happiness is a serious Ihinjr. 
While pleasure manifests itseii tiy extra vaii;ant gaiety, 
exuberant spirits, and overt acts, liappiuess retires to 
its o9-n proper region, the lieart."" Cctltbs. 

Earthly pleasure is no doubt here meant; and it is 
doubtless the same kind of pleasures to which Pope al- 
ludes, when he says 

Pleasures are ever in our hands or eyes, 
A.nd when in act tiiey cease. Essajj on Man. 
Every person who has come to years of discretion 
has realized the truth of Va°. above sentiment. Tht^re 
is such an insufficiency in earthly pleasures to satify 
the soul of man, that he often, imm'^d lately after in- 
dulging in them loathes and abliors the objects of his 
gratification. And yet because he does not place his 
affections, and dependance for happiness upon higher 
objects ; he is constantly returning to " the beggarly 
elements of this world," like '^ the dug to his own 
vomit again, and the sow that was washed to her v/al- 
lowing in the mire." In order to enjoy this world, we 
must deny it. 

" Lean not on earth, 'twill pierce you to the heart, 

A broken reed at best, but oft a spear. 

On whose sharp point Peace bleeds and Hope expires." 



Es::ay on i:ic Manufacture, of Straw. 55 

Knox, ''Where there is no respect there is no vir- 
tuous love. What looks like it i? a devil in an an- 
geV^] form." Man is indeed reduced to a miserable 
condition when he is oblig-ed to excite the admi- 
ration of his leliovv-beings in order to please 
or to be re^^pected by them. For in this way he 
makes admiration esticntial to his happiness ; and 
becomes not only vain but slavish. Nothinsf is 
more true than the maxim, that they wlio live 
to please must please in order to live. To be 
r.dmired for beauty of person is so delicious to 
many, that it is irresistable. But nalure"s form 
is comely enough, without the assistance of art ; 
and every attempt to set off the beauty of person 
produces actual deformity. Beauty is a quality 
which mankind possess in common with other 
animals, with vegetables, and with the inanimate 
parts of creation. Let us look around and see 
what are the objects which give the most perma- 
nent and pleasurable delight. If we but make 
a momentary observation and reflection, we 
shall not find them to be those brilliant and 
splendid objects which only excite a transitory 
ilash of admiration and soon pall by their glitter- 
ing; but we shall find them amongst those ob- 
jects which are farthest removed from the works 
of human art, and exist in all the simplicity of 
nature. (2) 

{z) By what has been said, I would not be thought to 
undervalue beauty ; for it is one of nature's commands, 
that we should be pleased with her vorkmanship. 
But we may mistake the foliage for the flower. And as 
from long beholding scenes of distress, or even from 
reading tlitm in novels and romances, the heart be- 
comes hard and insensible to them, so by frequently 
seeing persons set oflf in the gayest splendor, the miui. 
becomes less sensible to the charms of b«a«ty. 



CHAPTER VII. 

J\Ioral<, Potftical^ jMiscelianeous and Concluding 
Remarks. 

Porliaps bv this time some may be ready to 
say that I have looked only on the dark side of 
the suhject, and noticed the evils which have a- 
risen in consequence of this employment. To 
such let me answer ifevils have arisen, (or are 
still likely to arise) they ought to he pointed 
out in i>rder that they may be obviated, or a- 
voided. And if any good has ari-<en or is still 
to ari-e, in consequence of it, its effects will cer- 
tainly be realized. It is said that (jod never suf- 
fers an evil without intending a greater good 
to arise in consecjuence. And although much 
evil has arisen in consequence of this employ- 
ment, yet it is to be hoped that the good which 
will arise may far overbalance it. 

In one way much good no doubt has already 
arisen in consequence of it. It has afforded the 
means to many well di'^po-ed person:^, to make 
liberal contributions for benevolent and benefi- 
cent purposes. Many persons likewise, by 
means of the employment were enabled to pro- 
cure much valuable learning; anti with many 
it will no doubt be a cause of the most poignant 
pegret, that more of the products of their labour 
had not been appropriated to the purposes of 
acqtiiiing uset'ul knowledge. 

It may bt.' said that it has been the means of 
improving our taste, and cultivating our man- 
ners by opening: a more free interco'iibC with 
the seaports. But great evils are to be appre- 



Essay on the Manujaciure of Straw. h^ 

iiended from adopling- the manners of the sea- 
ports. For ^o far as their manners are connect- 
ed with luxury, they must be pernicious in the 
country. In all large seaports, luxury, for rea- 
sons which might be given, has made a much 
greater progress than in the country. And its 
pernicious elfects, though more hidden are be- 
yond calculation. 

Where luxury has made a great advancement, 
people are not only obliged to be more extrava- 
ganl in the articles of dress, &c. but the fashions 
also change m-uch oftener. And the expenses 
are therefore so great, that but few persons in 
the country have the means to meet them. — 
^And as one great object of luxury is to make a 
parade of our riches in order to conceal our re- 
al circumstances, this is effected with much more 
difficulty in the country where the condition of 
every individual is generally much better known 
than, in large seaport-towns. Since the decline 
of the business, the most strenuous exertions 
have been made by persons in the straw braiding 
towns, in order to keep up former appearances. 
And hence the trade between the country and 
seaports has been of iatervery much in favor of 
the latter. And indeed it has always been in 
their favor, but the consumer generally paid 
short of cash. 

If it be true that they who desire most erijo3'' 
least, then the boundless desires, which charac- 
terize the ri jng generation must add greatly to 
their unhappiness. But the true secret of hap- 
piness lies in contentment. And we ought to 
endeavor to reconcile ourselves in some meas- 
ure to the simple plainness of former times 

T)2 



58 Essay on the Manufacture of Slrax^. 

It may however be improper or impossible to 
imitate our ancestors in ever^ tlunjj^ ; hut this 
certainly can, and must be done, our desircK 
must be regulated by our means, although it 
would be much belter to regulate them by 
reason. 

It is not to be expected that all ouV articles 
of clothing will again be manui'actured by hand ; 
but certainly a more temperate use may be 
made of the costlj' imported articles, it will 
make persons appear more respectable, and it 
will evince the love of their conntry ; to clothe 
themselves as far as possible in articles of do- 
mestic manufacture. Surely no one either male 
or female, was ever anj' more respected, by rea- 
sonable persons, for wearing a gaudy or expen- 
sive dress. Do we not all admire the gay 
trappings of a fop, (or in modern language a 
dandy or dangler) while we despise his per^^on ? 
In short, fine clothes can be justified in fortune 
hunters only, because it is often their whole 
stock in trade. 

Dr. Franklin in his day, queried whether the 
luxury of the seaports would be able to ruin the 
country, because the great majority of people 
in the towns at a distance from them, were in- 
dustrious and frugal farmers. But if the man- 
ners and customs of the seaports, are introduced 
into the country towns, we cannot tell what the 
event may be. 

" The effect of luxury, is the employment cf 
industry in a useless and hurtful manner. And 
its essential character is, expenditures which are 
neither necessary nor productive, luxury is then 
a great evil, in relation to economy, and still 



kssay on the Manufacture of Straw. 69 

greater in a moral point of view ; which is a:t 
ail limes the most important of all the interests 
of men. And especially when the inclination 
for superfiiiou? expense, the principal of which 
is the vanity that excites and nourishes it, is in 
question. It renders the Oiind frivolous, and ef- 
fects the'Soundness of the understanding; it pro- 
duces disorderly manners, which occasions many 
vices, extravagance, and distraction in families. 
It easily seduces women to depravity, and men 
to covetousnes?, and leads both to disregard del- 
icacy and probity and to forsake every gener- 
ous and tender sentiment. In short it enervates 
the soul by debasing the mind, and produces 
these sad effects not only on such as enjoy it, but 
also on ail who are subservient to, or who from 
seeing and desiring, learn to admire it. [aa) 

It is to be hoped that the general dissemina- 
tion of knowledge throughout the United States 
will be sufhcient to counteract all the hurtful ef- 
fects of luxury. And when mankind have learnt 
in what' their proper happiness consists, no evils 
need be apprehended from this source. 

Many of the evils which we endure in this 
life are only imaginary and arise wholly from 
mistaken views of the things which are essen- 
tial to our happiness. How few are the wants 
of nature and how easily are they supplied? 
But mankind ever seem most anxious to procure 
and willing to pay the most liberally for mere 
luxuries and superfluities. Many, when the 
giddiness of childhood and youth have subsided 
find cause to regret their misplaced affections. — 

(aa) See Montesquieu's Spirit of Laws, and Tracy's 
Commeatarv and Review of it. 
J>3 



vO Essay on the Manvfactwre of Strati). 

And it is often beyond tiie power of reason to 
restore the rains, which tfie irnag-ination has 
made. How often do we find that the objects 
upon which we placed our dependance for hap- 
piness are but illusive, surely there cannot be a 
greater evil than placing our dependance for 
happiness upon a wrong foundation. 

Many of the errors of mankind depend upon 
education or example. When a person comes 
into the world, he finds manners, customs and 
the order of things established ; he sees to what 
objects those around him pay their court; and 
he by their examples is led to pursue the same 
objects; and his limited knowledge concerning 
the nature of things, prevents him from form- 
ing proper conclusions respecting the proprie- 
ty or impropriety of the pursuit. And thus he 
is led on till habits are formed, or till experi- 
ence teaches him the futility of his hopes; but 
he too often continues in this dream of ignorance 
till the iron hand of time breaks the thread of 
life. 

Much has heen said and written concerning 
the vanity of human wi.-shes ; and yet how lit- 
tle effect has it had upon the actions of mankind. 
This is partly owing to the frailty of our natures, 
but more to the indolence of man. It is much 
easier to believe the truth of a sentiment than 
to govern our actions by what it teaches. " The 
spirit indeed is willing, but the flesh is weak." 
It becomes us therefore in every thing which 
relates to our happiness, to endeavor to strength- 
en and fortity this weakness of our nature. 

Man oftenesl errs in forming an estimate of 
the things around him. Things in general may 



Essay Oil the Manvfactare of Cintzv. 01 

be divided into two great classes; those whicli 
are useful or necessary, and those which are 
superfluous or mere luxuries. Among' the form- 
er, are water, bread, salt and iron, things diffus- 
ed with a bountiful hand throughout creation ; 
and without which, mankind in civilized life 
could hardly subsist. Among the latter, are 
gold, silver, precious stones, and all other things 
which owe their value entirely to their scarci- 
ty. Things which, if they were struck out of 
existence, mankind would hardl}^ have cauf^e lio 
regret. For although a great deal of good has 
resulted to mankind by the discoveries Avhich 
fjave been ir.ade, while in search after gold ; 
,nnd although money has done much good by 
promoting commerce, and by its being the 
means of making improvements in the arts and 
sciences which tend to civilize mankind, and to 
supply the deficiency of his nature; yet when 
we reflect on the wars and bloodshed it has oc- 
casioned, when we reflect upon the millions of 
our fellow-beings who have been sacrificed at 
the shrine of avarice, that fell destroyer, we 
are almost ready to doubt the wisdom of provi- 
dence, and exclaim, these are evils which had 
better never been suilered. But let us not rash- 
ly charge Omnipotence with foil}', let us rather 
exclaim, " O sin ! fatal sin ! terrible is the des- 
olation thou spreadest in the human breast.-' 

Much m.ore might be said, to shew that the 
liappiness of mankind does not consist in the 
abundance of his possessions, or in his means of 
enjoyment ; but enough, and perhaps too much 
has been already said. A few remarks upon the 



G2 Essay on the Manufacture of Straps). 

elTects of lu;iiiry on national prosperity, will 
close this subject. 

National an;) individual prosperity and happi- 
ness in a republic, are so inseparably connect- 
ed, that the one naturally presupposes tiie oth- 
er. Individual happiness in a republic, is very 
closely connected with liberty ; and it is diffi= 
cult to enact sumptuary laws, or laws restrain- 
in{^ the e\trava;;;^ance of individuals, without in- 
IVinging this liberty. And perhaps it is the 
weakness of pn])filar governments, that they al- 
low too much liberty to individuals ; for liberty 
abused is always destructive of itself", Nothing 
but a proper edjcation, seems capable of coun- 
teracting the eir<-ets of this great liberty. Vir^ 
tue, acGordinj* to civilians is the foundation of a 
republican form of government. And theref<;re, 
a virtuous educafion is the foundation not only 
of national, but «f individual happiness and pros- 
perity. But what is virtue ?(^6) Virtue im- 
]/lies the InvG of some great and good ob- 
ject ; and active virtue implies a desire and the 
attempt to promote the good of that object,--^ 
Hence there a?;e (several kinds of virtue, as 
christian, patriotic, social, heroic. Fatriot- 

(6&) As virtue is t'rut only pari? source of liappin?ss ; 
this is an inquiry wf>rthy the attention of every one. — 
For none ever placP'l (heir dependance for happiticss, 
npon any otlier ioiiUfiation wilhout beinp: dijappointed. 
Ail virtue is foundtd in the lovo of God, and upon 
■whatever object \vq place our affections, as a depen- 
dance for ha]>pine«5, unless they arc directed by the 
love of God, it cannot constitute virtue. 

" What nothing earthly gives or can destroy, 

The souPs calm guti?hitie and (he heartfelt joy. 

Is virtue's prize."'' Pops''^ Essmj on Man. 



Essay on the Maniifdciiirc i-f .'Jtrazv Go 

ic virtue consists in the love of our country, 
and a desire to promote its good. Knowledge 
and wisdom are essential to virtue ; the one 
teaches what things are necessary to promote 
the good of an object, and the other teaches the 
best mean? to obtain the desired end>. Indus- 
tr}^, frugality, and equality are essenlial to the 
welfare of a republic. Hence those who are 
indolent, prodigal or luxurious, are enemies 
Lot only to themselves, but to their country. 

It is very certain, says an excellent wri- 
ier,(cc) that national prosperity, as it is com- 
prehended in numerous fleets and armies, ofex- 
l^ensive empire, large revenues, advantageous 
commerce, and a profusion of money in specie. 
Is a kind of good by no means connected with 
moral good, or the substantial happiness of in- 
dividuals. It makes a splendid figure in Imag- 
ination's eye ; but to Reason, it appears in a 
very questionable shape, and experience is able 
to evince that it has always diffused profligacy 
and nii^ery through the walks of private life : 
and by introducing luxury, licentiousness, indo- 
lence and corruption, has at once destro\'ed all 
that can render human nature dignified and hap- 
py ; and precipitated the decline and the down- 
tail of empires themselves, while triumphing in 
fancied glor}''. 

It has been observed, that the natural body 
and the body politic bear a remarkable analogy 
to each other. And as luxury, the inevitable 
consequence of what is falsely called individual 
or national prosperit}', is the banc of individu- 
al?, so it has been justly called " the grave of 

(ce) Knox's Essays, No. 127. 



64 Essaij on ike Manufacture of Strasi'. 

empires." But here a question may very natu- 
rally arise. To what use shall that wealth, 
which is acquired by industry and frugality, be 
appropriated? Let it be appropriated to public 
improvements, to the defence of the nation in 
time of need, to benevolent and beneticent pur- 
poses. In short, let it be appropriated to re- 
moving that load of ig-norance and misery whiclx 
oppresses the greatest part of the human race : 
and by which the great ones of the earth are 
finpported. A volume would be insufficient to 
detail the evils which money might in some 
way or other contribute to remove. And shall 
we say that we have no other way to spend our 
wealth but in self-aggrandizement ? (tW) 

As knowledge is essential to virtue, to what 
better purpose cna the rich appropriate a part 
of their wealth nnd thereby evince their love 
of country and of mankind than in disseminating 
knowledge among the poorer classes of peo- 
ple ?(ec) As ii is essential to the welfare of a 
republic that a great majority of the peo})le 
should be industrious, it has been argued by 
some, that it is indispensable for some to indulge 

{dd) Every ^ood nmn desires to become rich ; not for 
the sake of riches for (hey cannot directly confer happi- 
ness, but that he muy have it in his power to do nriore 
good. Yet it is dangerous to be rich ; for the increase 
of riches, as well as of knowledge increases our resp'^nsi- 
bility. The servant ?poken of in the parable, who had 
ten talents, was called to a strict account as well as he 
that had but one. One of the sore evils, pointed out by 
the wi?e man, was '^ riches kept for the owners thereot 
to their hurt." 

(ee) What better method can they take to effect this 
than by supporting Lancasterian and Sunday Schoob ? 



Essay on the Manujacture of Straw. 65 

in luxury, in order give employment to the ve=i{. 
This in «ome degree may hold true in monarch- 
ies, where honoris the ruimg principie. But as 
virtue is the soul of a republic, vviii any one pre- 
tend thnt luxury is essential to its prosperity? 
Let us view this subject in another light As 
the rich, luxurious and indolent, generally have 
but tew children — the majority of the next gen- 
eration mu~t coGHist of the descendants of the 
poor, or of those who are industrious either by 
choice or necessity. 

It is therefore very essential to the welfare 
of a republic that knowledge should be dissem- 
inated among them. 

If, however, ray opinions are ditlerent from 
others upon this subject, 1 have at least the sat- 
isfaction of not being singular in them. 

Although great are the advances which this 
country has made in luxury, and great is the 
consequent destrnctinn of virtue and good mor- 
als ;(ee) yet it is to be hoped that it will be a 
long time before the general corruption will 
be so great as to destroy the Constitu- 

(ee) It appears very evident by observation, (iiat the 
arts and sciences in our country are rapidly progressing, 
but that good morals are fast declining : and an anxious 
desire for riches, in order to subserve the purposes of 
vanity and luxury, is evidently the ruling passiop. of the 
times. 

iff) " 1 believe that this (constitution) can only end 
in despotisoa as other forms have done before it, when 
the people shall become so cor.upied as to need desr- 
potic government being incapible of any other." — 
From Dr. Frank linV- speech in the convention in 1787. 



66 Essay on the Manufacture of Sira'iij. 

There are many causes which will have a 
direct tendency to retard this event. Some of 
them may be the following. The remains of 
virtue will long continue in our land. It will 
be a long time before the property of individ- 
uals will become so unequal as to render ihe 
majority of the people dependant upon the rich. 
The general dissemination of knowledge, and 
people educated under a popular government, 
are generally very tenacious ot their rights. 

And it is to be hoped, that the christian re- 
ligion, although luxury and its consequent at- 
tendants have aimed a death blow at it, will 
long continue and tiourish throughout our land. 
It was the foundation of our liberty, and it still 
continues to be the main pillar which supports 
the Constitution. 

it might be expected that an apology would 
be made for treating some of the subjects of this 
Essay with so much plainness. But truth needs 
no apology, and in writing on subjects of mor- 
ality, or where the general good of mankind 
is concerned, one ought to act as though he had 
nothing to hope or fear from the world. For 
although it may sometimes be imprudent (in re- 
gard to his worldly interest) for a person to 
speak the truth and the whole truth, yet can 
any evil arise to mankind in general from know- 
ing the whole truth? To speak the truth when- 
ever we have the happiness of our feilovv-creat- 
ures in view, is of more importance than to be 
only virtuous. The one is merely passive, the 
other is active ; the one proceeds not only from 
the love, but from a desire to serve mankind. 



A'^oci^' Oil L'le AlauvJacCo e vj Sircrx. 67 

To speak the truth often requires a degree of 
heroic viriue ; and they who enlist in her 
cause, often not only incur the *^ worlds dread 
Iriugh," but even its hatred too. Truth has ev- 
er been opposed to falsehood. But good men 
are never oilended at the truth; whereas evil 
men are often more offended at it than at false- 
hood. And this is a sure criterion, by which to 
know ihem. 

My remarks however have been pointed Ies5 
at persons than at practices ; and being conscious 
of my goovi intensions I shall dismiss it whether 
it is capable of any valuable purposes or not. — 
And if it has not the effect to reform in any de- 
gree the manners of mankind ; yet I hope at 
least that it may be i'vee irom the charge of hav- 
ing added to their vices. The world abounds 
with e\il, moral, natural, real and imaginary; 
and it is the duty of every one to do all within 
his power to remove it. And in this essay I 
have attempted to point out some of the evils 
incident to mankind, in hopes that some might 
be induced to shun them. 



CONTENTS 



Page. 
Introduction. - - - 3 

Chapter i. — Historical account of Origin, 
Progress and decline of the Manufacture 
of Straw Bonnets in the United States. 7 

Chapter ii. — State of Domestic Manufac- 
tures and employment of female* in the 
conntry to>vn!i, prior to the introduction 
of the Straw Manufacture. The effect 
which it had upon them. - - 17 

Chapter III. — Effects of the employment up- 
on the Dress, Diet &,c. of those engaged 
in it. 22 

IJhapter IV. — Effects upon the health of 
those employed in the Manufacture. 27 

I!hapter v. — Effects of the employment 
upon the general characier,manner^, hab- 
its and emj)loyments of the maies. A brief 
account of the manufacture of Jewelry 
in the town of Attleborough, and its mor- 
al effects. 31 

/Hapter VI. — Effects of the employment up- 
on the social intercourse of the sexes. 4b 

Chapter vii.— Moral, Political, Miscellane- 
ous and Concluding Remarks. 56 



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